Hoang Su Phi: The golden masterpiece of the Northern highlands

Hoang Su Phi, a mountainous district on the western edge of Ha Giang, is a breathtaking sanctuary defined by its towering earthen mountains and cascading rice terraces. Often overshadowed by the rocky Dong Van Plateau, this hidden gem offers a lush, golden spectacle that has been meticulously carved by 12 ethnic minority groups over centuries. This guide provides essential information on how to reach this remote paradise, the best ways to experience its raw beauty, and the cultural treasures that await in the "golden masterpiece" of the North.

Where is Hoang Su Phi?

Hoang Su Phi is located in the western part of Ha Giang province, sharing a border with Lao Cai province and sitting upstream of the Chay River. Unlike the jagged limestone karsts of the northern districts, this region is characterized by steep, soil-rich mountains that are ideal for agriculture.

The district is roughly 80 kilometers from Ha Giang City, but due to the winding mountain roads, the journey feels like entering a completely different world. It is the home of the spectacular National Heritage rice terraces, which stretch across six communes including Ban Luoc, Ban Phung, and Thong Nguyen.

How to get to Hoang Su Phi?

Reaching Hoang Su Phi requires navigating some of Northern Vietnam's most scenic yet challenging roads. Most travelers begin their journey in Ha Giang City, which serves as the primary transit hub for exploring the province. The most common route involves traveling south on Highway 2 (QL2) towards Tan Quang, then turning onto Provincial Road 177. This road winds upward into the mountains for about 60 kilometers, offering dramatic views but demanding careful driving due to its narrow and twisting nature.

Transportation Suggestions:

• By Motorbike: This is the preferred choice for adventurers who want total freedom to stop for photos and admire the scenery. You can rent high-quality motorbikes in Ha Giang City, but ensure you are a confident rider as the pass to Hoang Su Phi has many blind curves and steep gradients.

• By Local Bus: There are local buses running from Ha Giang bus station to Vinh Quang town (the capital of Hoang Su Phi), though schedules can be irregular. While affordable, this option is less comfortable and offers less flexibility for sightseeing along the way.

Best time to visit Hoang Su Phi

Choosing the right time to visit is crucial for witnessing Hoang Su Phi's iconic beauty, as the landscape changes dramatically with the agricultural cycle.

• Water-pouring season (May – June): This is when farmers irrigate the fields to prepare for planting. The terraces turn into giant mirrors reflecting the sky and clouds, creating a surreal, shimmering landscape.

• Harvest season (September – October): This is the peak tourist season when the rice ripens. The entire district transforms into a breathtaking "sea of gold," offering the most spectacular photography opportunities.

Must-try activities at Hoang Su Phi

Trekking the through the rice terraces

Trekking is the undisputed highlight here, with trails winding directly through the massive rice terraces in communes like Ban Phung and Ban Luoc. Walking along the narrow earthen ridges allows you to witness the sheer scale of the farming engineering while breathing in the fresh, cool mountain air.

Hunting for clouds at Chieu Lau Thi

For a surreal experience, trek or ride up to Chieu Lau Thi Peak, the second-highest mountain in Ha Giang. In the early morning, the summit is often an island in a vast ocean of white clouds, offering one of the most magical sunrise views in Vietnam.

Exploring Ethnic Markets

Visiting the Vinh Quang Sunday Market or smaller commune markets offers a vibrant glimpse into the daily lives of the Nung, Dao, and La Chi people. These markets are not just for trading goods like buffalo and vegetables, but are social hubs where locals gather in their colorful traditional attire to exchange news and drink corn wine.

Tasting Ancient Shan Tuyet Tea

The high mountains of Hoang Su Phi are home to ancient Shan Tuyet tea trees, some of which are hundreds of years old and covered in white moss. You can visit tea plantations in Phin Ho or Thong Nguyen to watch the harvesting process and sip this rare, robust tea that is famous for its purity and health benefits.

Delicious foods you can't miss

The cuisine of Hoang Su Phi is earthy and unique, heavily reliant on the fresh ingredients grown on the terraced slopes.

• Carp Raised in Rice Fields (Ca Chep Ruong): Local farmers raise carp directly in the flooded rice terraces, resulting in fish with firm, sweet meat. It is typically grilled or cooked in a sour soup with local herbs, offering a distinct flavor of the harvest.

• La Chi Rat Meat: For the truly adventurous, this is a specialty of the La Chi ethnic group, often prepared grilled or stir-fried. While it may sound unusual to tourists, it is a delicacy prepared with great care and is an integral part of local harvest celebrations.

• Five-Color Sticky Rice: This visually stunning dish is made using natural dyes from forest leaves and roots to color the glutinous rice. It represents the five elements of the universe and is a staple at festivals and welcoming meals.

• Com Lam (Bamboo Tube Rice): Sticky rice is packed into fresh bamboo tubes and grilled over charcoal until the bamboo is charred and the rice is fragrant. It is the perfect portable snack for a long day of trekking.

Nearby attractions you would like to visit

Hoang Su Phi sits in a strategic location that allows adventurous travelers to connect with other impressive destinations in the region.

• Xin Man: Located just west of Hoang Su Phi, this neighboring district offers equally stunning scenery but with even fewer tourists. The road connecting the two passes through deep valleys and offers access to the mysterious ancient stone field of Nam Dan.

• Bac Ha: A scenic backroad connects Hoang Su Phi to Bac Ha in Lao Cai province, famous for its massive Sunday ethnic market. This route allows you to create a loop that covers both the Ha Giang terraces and the cultural highlights of Lao Cai.

• Tay Con Linh Peak: Known as the "Roof of Northeast Vietnam," this mountain is a challenging trekking destination for serious hikers. It is home to primal forests and ancient tea trees, sitting on the border between Hoang Su Phi and Vi Xuyen.

Extra travel tips

To make the most of your journey to this remote highland, preparation and timing are key:

Planning your itinerary: Do not try to rush Hoang Su Phi as a day trip; you should allocate at least 2-3 days to fully appreciate the trekking routes and homestays. Combining Hoang Su Phi with the standard Dong Van Loop requires a longer itinerary (min 5-6 days) as they are in opposite directions from Ha Giang City.

Packing checklist

Item	Why you need it
Sturdy Hiking Boots	Essential for grip on steep, often muddy terrace paths.
Insect Repellent	Crucial for keeping bugs away in rustic homestays and forests.
Cash (VND)	ATMs are rare; most local homestays and markets only accept cash.
Raincoat / Poncho	Mountain weather is unpredictable; be ready for sudden showers.
Warm Layers	Even in summer, evenings in the high mountains can get chilly.
Power Bank	Electricity in remote homestays can be intermittent or limited.

Hoang Su Phi remains one of the few places in Vietnam where the landscape feels untouched and the culture completely authentic. From the golden waves of grain to the mist-shrouded peaks of Chieu Lau Thi, it offers a serene escape for those willing to venture off the beaten path. If you are ready to witness this golden masterpiece, our team at Custom Asia Travel is here to help you navigate the rugged roads and connect with the heart of the highlands.